b'Squaring Your Steering Lets taLk steering - continuedStep 4. After you true up your steering box to the frame, when you attach the pitman arm, that side of the centerlink will be level if you take the droop out of it. What I mean is, if you bolt the centerlink to your pitman arm & just let it hang, the weight of the centerlink will droop on the end where the idler arm would go & bind up the bearings on the pitman arm end. Youll want to find the center of the two bind angles. Do thisput a digital angle finder on the centerlink & let it droop. For conversation sake, if it said -1.3and you put your hand under the free end (idler arm end) and lift until you feel bind the other directionand your digital angle finder reads +1.3youll know that level (0.0) will be zero bind. That is where you want the centerlink to belevel. (If you get significantly different numbers, for example your angle finder reads -2.0 in droop & +1.0 in lift, your steering box is NOT level.) OKattach the idler arm to the open end. Use an adjustable jack stand, shims, old KC & the Sunshine band albumswhatever you haveto hold the centerlink level. Your next step is make it a true 90 to the chassis centerline. There are a lot of ways to achieve this. If you already trued up your suspension, then your FACL (Front Axle Center Line) lines on the floor are the BEST way to check this. Step 5. With the centerlink level & truly square to the chassis, and the idler arm attached to the centerlink, swing the idler arm up to the side of the frame. Do the bolt holes line up?9 out of 10 times = No. Dont sweat it. This is part of the process. You may need to modify the holes or weld them up & redrill new holes, depending on how far theyre off. Before you do that, lets get the Idler arm EXACTLY where it goes.Here are the factors that determine where to mount the idler arm: With your centerlink level & parallel to your FACL.Whatever the angle of the steering box axis is (see purple dotted line in photo to the right)the idler arm post pivot axis (green dotted line) needs to be the same. Measure from center-to-center of your centerlink pivots. For example only, lets say yours is 24-3/8 (see blue line example below). ThenXXyou need the pivot center of your idler arm to be the same dimension from the center of the splined shaft your pitman arm isXXattached to.24-3/8 17 24-3/8As long as you are using a height adjustable racing style idler arm with a mounting post (Red dotted circle) it should need to be spaced away from the frame some amount. Figure out that amount to get your idler arm post in its correct location. If the gap is small enough, use a few aircraft machined washers & shims (like in our kit). If you need spacers too, we have another kit with spacers & shims. The bottom line is you want the center of the idler arm post to center of the splined steering shaft to be the same dimension as the centerlink pivots. Lastly, you may need to cut off the nose (see green dotted rectangle) on your crossmember & box it with a plate, for clearance. 390'