b'TECH TIP PAGETech Tip 32: Under hard braking on corner entry, there is a huge amount of force pushing upon the front tires & therefore the chassis. The front frame literally bows upward. This chassisflex is lost energy & reduces the loadand gripon the front tires. Adding strength to the front frame clipin the correct path of the forcesreduces this flex significantly & addssubstantial front grip to your race car. Adding an engine bay bar structure to reduce the amount the front frame bows up, reducesthis lost grip. Unfortunately, that force is all directed at the spring or coil-over mounts, twisting them inward. Again, this flex is lost energy & lost front grip.The second part of the solution is to strengthen the bay bars on both sides so they cant twistinward. That is what a bay bar brace does. It prevents each side of the frame & cage bars from twisting inward, towards each other. This two part solution restores almost all the lost grip,allowing you to drive in deeper, with more grip, speed, stability & predictability. Tech Tip 39: Veteran Racers count the threads per inch on the suspension front, rear, 3-Link,watts & jack screwsthen measure & record the actual changes at the shop. If you take thetime to do this, track tuning is quick & predictable. Winning Crew Chiefs know exactly howmany turns it takes to adjust EVERY area of their race car.Knowing that a full turn of each shock jack screws gives you X% of cross weight changeor3 turns on the top link is X% more or less Anti-Squator 3 turns of watts link adjusterchanges the rear roll center 3/8is powerful knowledge to your tuning game at the track.Build Tip: Assembling hardware on a new race car seems pretty simple. But there are BestWays.On Ron Suttons Winners Circle teams, all crew learned the Ron Sutton Way &frankly had less issues. Here are seven key methods for new race car assembly:1.Run a tap/die on all new threads to remove burrs & clean threads before assembly.2.Use a small amount of light anti-seize spray on all metal threads to make assembly easier, torque accurate & to prevent rustso disassembly & adjustment is possible. 3.Steel & aluminum threads together create electrolysis. Anti-seize prevents this too.4.65# Timken rated greases are the best under high rotational loads for hub/axle bearings. 5.Adjust all axle & hub bearings to the point of no slop, with the least preload possible.6.Dont guess.Torque fasteners to their suggested torque. No more. No less.7.Clock the rod ends in every suspension link, so they have the MOST articulation range.Build Tip: Torque Numbers change with ANYTHING that makes the nut or bolt turn easier. Lube on the threads or under the washerthe actual torque number needs to be lower. Samewith anti-seize, lube, polished threads etc.117'