b'TECH TIP PAGE LetS taLK rear Sway Bar StrategyThere is a BIG ADVANTAGE to running a rear sway barAlways keep your sway bar wheel instead of running springs only.Imagine if the sway barrate LESS than 2/3 of your spring motion ratio & shock/spring motion ratio were the same, forrate.Otherwise the sway bar may this conversation only, if we need 300# of wheel rate & getoverpower the spring & lift your 2/3 of it from the springs & 1/3 from the sway baryou willinside tire off the ground when have a 1/3 softer wheel rate (200#) at corner turn in.Thiscornering. adds rear grip on entry, allowing the driver to be more aggressive.The sway bar rate comes in PROGRESSIVELY as the car turns in to get to the full 300# wheel rate mid-cornerwhere it needs it for balance (neutral handling).Then as you unwind the steering wheel, the sway bar rate is DIGRESSIVE getting back to ) rate by the time the car is straight.This gives you more rear grip on corner exit to roll the throttle on much quicker.We cant do this with a spring only combination.If we run 200# wheel rate, the car is good at entry, then pushes in the middle & snaps loose on exit.If we run the full 300# wheel rate from the springs only, the car will be good in the middle, but the driver will have to slow down the entry a lot & be much slower with throttle roll on. Since we typically run tame rear sway bar rates (relative to the front) in the 150# to 400# rangeif we make our arms have 3 or 4 holeswe have a GREAT FINE TUNING tool.A key thing we do with our billet aluminum arms for rear sway bars is to run four holes 3/4" apart, instead of three holes 1 apart.We get more options and smaller fine tuning changes.I HATE aluminum sway bar armsin the front.They just dont respond well with sway bar rates above 1000#especially when we get real mean in the 2000#-3000# range.With that kind of rate, aluminum arms have two problems.We dont get the true rate of the bar, due to arm flex & the rebound is sluggish, lazy, slow.Think of a coil spring or sway bar made out of crappy, not heat-treated steel.Same thing.In the rear, its different, because were only dealing with 150#-400# of rear sway bar rate.Having said thatwe still want the best responding aluminum arms we can get.We only use 7075-T6.7075 is the strongest, lowest deflection & quickest responding aluminum.Hardened to T6 & we get a pretty sporty aluminum sway bar arm.I still dont want to use it for front bars.But they rock as rear sway bar arms. Packaging the rear sway bar is HARD, so we offer two different lengths for the 1.00 x 48 Spline rear Sway Bars.This gives you more options.Running a shorter arm to help packaging is pretty obvious.Not so obvious though, is well often run long arms either over or under the rear axle tubes.The bar may be behind the RACL & well place the links on the front side of the axle tubes (or vice versa). As youll see on nearby page, packaging sway bars can be a challenge. RSRT #5909-1 Black "SHORT" Sway Bar Arms have 4 holes at 6.75" 7.50" 8.25" & 9.00" RSRT #5912-1 Black "LONG" Sway Bar Arms have 4 holes at 9.75" 10.50" 11.25" & 12.00"99'